Best Exercises to Prevent Knee Injuries in Climbers

Knee injuries are a common concern for climbers, especially as the sport evolves to include more dynamic movements and intense demands. From daring dynos to high steps and complex boulder problems, the knees often bear a significant load. This blog provides general information and exercises that may help climbers reduce the risk of knee injuries by promoting flexibility, stability, and resilience.

Always consult a licensed healthcare provider to determine the best course of action for your individual needs.

Why Climbers Are Prone to Knee Injuries

Climbers’ knees are subjected to unique stresses due to the demands of the sport, including:

• High-Impact Movements: Landing awkwardly from a jump or fall can place sudden stress on the knees.

• Subtle Strains: Movements like heel hooks, drop-knee positions, and high steps may lead to cumulative strain over time.

Many injuries occur when the knee is twisted or positioned suboptimally under load. A gradual approach to improving flexibility and strength may help prepare the knees to handle these unconventional angles.

My Top 5 Exercises to Prevent Knee Injuries as a Climber

Below are examples of exercises that I use to support knee health. Be sure to consult a healthcare provider before incorporating any new exercises into your routine.

1. Pigeon Pose with Heel Hook Activation

This stretch can promote flexibility in the hips and knees while replicating climbing-specific movements such as the heel hook!

Steps:

• Sit on the floor with one leg bent in front of you and the other extended straight behind you.

• Ensure the outside of your knee and ankle touches the floor, keeping your hips square.

• For added challenge, place your palm against your heel and gently push away while your heel resists the force. This activates your hamstring, replicating a heel hook movement.

2. Lunge Matrix with Slider

This multi-directional movement can help improve knee stability and strength across various planes of motion, critical for climbing.

Equipment: A slider, socks, or fabric on a smooth floor.

Steps:

1. Start standing with feet hip-width apart.

2. Forward Lunge: Slide one foot forward while bending your standing leg and sending your hips back. Return to the starting position.

3. Side Lunge: Slide the same foot directly to the side, repeating the bending and hip movement.

4. Curtsy Lunge: Slide the foot diagonally behind your standing leg into a curtsy position. Return to start.

3. Swiss Ball Hamstring Curls

Strengthening the hamstrings can help support the knee during climbing.

Steps:

• Lie on your back with your heels on a Swiss ball, feet hip-width apart.

• Lift your hips and bend your knees, rolling the ball toward you.

• Keep knees aligned with your hips and ankles.

• For a challenge, use a resistance band around your knees to maintain slight tension, or progress to single-leg curls.

4. Sit Downs for Eccentric Quadriceps Strength

Eccentric movements can improve control during descents and reduce the impact on the knees.

Steps:

• Start in a tall kneeling position with knees, hips, and shoulders stacked.

• Slowly lower your hips toward your heels, without fully sitting, and return to the starting position.

5. Internal Rotation Strengthening

This exercise can enhance hip stability, which may contribute to proper knee alignment.

Steps:

• Lie on your back in a tabletop position with a yoga block or pillow between your knees.

• Rotate your hips inward by pushing your feet outward, creating tension in the inner thighs.

How to Structure Your Routine

Stretches

• Hold each stretch for 30 seconds to 1 minute, repeating 2–3 times. Longer holds aren’t necessarily more effective, so focus on proper form.

Exercises

• Perform 3 sets of 8–10 repetitions for each exercise. For prevention, prioritize lower load and higher repetitions to build endurance and tolerance for climbing positions.

Tips for Success

• Prioritize Proper Form: Incorrect mechanics can increase injury risk.

• Progress Gradually: Increase intensity over time as your body adapts.

• Stay Consistent: Regular practice may help build long-term resilience.

If you experience persistent pain or discomfort, consult a healthcare professional for personalized advice.

THE BIG PICTURE

Climbing places unique demands on the knees, making proactive care essential. While these exercises are general recommendations that may help reduce strain and promote strength, they are not a substitute for professional evaluation. If you are dealing with knee pain or concerns, seek guidance from a licensed healthcare provider.

Disclaimer: This blog is for informational purposes only and is not intended to be a substitute for physical therapy, medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. The content provides general information and instructions on exercises that may help improve strength, mobility, and function in specific areas of the body. It is not a replacement for obtaining a medical diagnosis or personalized advice from a qualified, licensed healthcare provider. Always consult a healthcare professional before starting any new exercise program, especially if you are experiencing persistent symptoms. Not Your Average PT assumes no liability for any actions taken based on the information provided in this blog.